![]() The included chiller is OK but a little slow. Once the batch is chilled to my desired temperature, I am using my own homemade copper chiller. I have a stainless steel tube to circulate around the chiller without splashing. Once boil is complete I hook up my circulation pump and begin cooling the batch. I get a nice boil from the unit but not enough to have to worry about boil over.Īt 15 minutes I add my chiller. O let the basket drain for 10-15 minutes and then slowly rinse with the 2 gallons of water I saved back. Once conversion is complete, heat to 168 degF and then lift the grain basket and allow it to drain and change my temp setting to boil. The unit holds the mash temp within +/-1 degF. I added my grains and adjusted pH and got my pump circulating. Since everything is automatic, you don't need to monitor the temperature. I also had time to eat breakfast and drink coffee while reading. My last two brews, I started heating my water and had time to weigh my grains and hops, grind my grain and sanitize my fermenter. I have used the timer to have my strike water ready for me when I wake up, this eliminates the 1 hour and 15 minutes it takes to heat the water from ambient to 155 degF. I use a half pound of rice hulls also.īrew day time. It is really a rinse since I don't dunk the grains into the sparge water, just pore them slowly over the top. I heat up my strike water and sparge water together, then pull 2 gallons for the sparge then dough in. ![]() I am getting 65% BH efficiency using a 2 gallon grain rinse. I am using the 120V option with a recirculation pump.Įfficiency. It took me two batches to get my parameters set correctly in BeerSmith. I have made three 6 gallon batches with my Anvil 10.5. Read all instructions and practice safe brewing. The lid should only be clamped when used for distillation. The steam buildup can lead to severe burns. Three Sizes Available: 18 Gallon for 10 gallon batches, 10.5 Gallon for 5 Gallon Batches and 6.5 Gallon for 2.5-3 Gallon Batches.Ĭaution! Do not CLAMP the lid in place while boiling. No Need to Disassemble Entire Unit! Use for Other Pumping Needs too. Optional External Pump Won't Plug and is Easy to Clean. Includes High Capacity Stainless Immersion Chiller with Hoses & Fittings. Linear Digital Power Control and Solid-State Switching for Fine Tuning your Boil. Ultra Low Watt Density, Triple Element Heaters - Won't Scorch. Large Capacity Increases Efficiency and Grain Capacity.ĭouble Wall Insulation Maintains Mash Temps and Increases Heating Speeds. Unique High Flow Grain Basket with 150% More Perforations to Virtually Eliminate Stuck Mashes. ![]() Reiterated mashing is a process in which you create a wort from your first runnings and then use that wort as your strike water for essentially your second mashing.Switchable Between 120V 1600W and 240V 2800W for Faster Heating & Better Boils. You will be able to brew those big, robust Russian Imperial Stouts or dank Barleywines with little to no effort. Whether you are an all-grain brewer using the trusty cooler for a mash-tun or an all-grain brewer using the Brew in the Bag (BIAB) method, like myself, reiterated mashing may be your saving grace. One of the biggest challenges for a pro brewer or homebrewer has to be brewing big beers.įor the argument sake, I am classifying ‘big beers” anything with a starting gravity over 1.080. This was my effort, however minimal and innocuous, to bring more attention to this wonderful beer style. ![]() Somehow with all the crazy attention Barrel Aged Stouts and Pastry Stouts receive these days, Imperial Porters have pretty much gone to the waste side. After brewing a Belgian Stout a few days prior, I felt the need to brew up a nice Imperial Porter. Those beers that warm your bones as you sip it next to the fire. You know, those beers that look forward to after shoveling the snow in December or January. After I brewed my Oktoberfest, my mind started wondering to big beers. ![]()
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